Smarttravelly Local Jennifer Walker moved to Budapest four years ago to reconnect with her Hungarian roots. She still loves uncovering the cityâs secrets, from hidden courtyards and quirky cafes to the Jewish Quarterâs grittiest bars. Jennifer remains as dazzled as ever by Budapestâs beautiful art nouveau architecture, which she admires during her favourite long weekend walks.
My favourite places in the city⊠are quite offbeat. The Kelenföld Power Station is simply exquisite with its art deco glass ceiling and copper-green control panels, but the fairytale-like water towers at the former Ăbuda Gas Works are also beautiful. I love industrial architecture, which is why the converted spaces in the IX District, like the BĂĄlna mall, also appeal to me. While I do geek out over industrial buildings, Iâm also a huge fan of art nouveau, especially anything by Ădön Lechner. I think my favourite Lechner building is the Institute of Geology up in ZuglĂł, just outside City Park.
On a typical weekend⊠I like to go for a walk in the morning, usually up GellĂ©rt Hill, but first Iâll grab a coffee in my neighbourhood. Iâll go on a walking tour to somewhere unusual, like the villas in the XVI District â one of my favourites is the stunning Dozzi Villa which was once owned by an Italian who allegedly introduced salami to Hungary. The evening is all about meeting friends for drinks or taking in some culture, like seeing a play or a film. Sunday afternoons are best when spent outdoors in the hills or soaking in one of the cityâs famous thermal baths.
When I have friends in town⊠I love taking them around the city and sharing my favourite spots. Markets are always fun to visit, like the Sunday morning farmersâ market at the Szimpla Kert ruin pub, or checking out antique curiosities at the Ecseri Piac flea market. I like to take friends around the Palace District, one of my favourite neighbourhoods in Budapest. Youâll find incredible, underrated architecture here, like the Ervin SzabĂł Central Library or the Italian-looking palatial apartments on MikszĂĄth KĂĄlmĂĄn Square.
When I meet friends for a drink⊠I generally avoid places like Szimpla Kert unless Iâm with someone who has never been there. I prefer some of the grittier places in the Jewish Quarter like KisĂŒzem or Vittula, or I go further afield to the craft beer joints in the IX District, like ĂlesztĆ. I also have my own local favourites over in my neighbourhood in Buda, like Gdansk, a tiny Polish bookstore-cafe which has just four tables, or Kelet, a cafe and bar filled with old books you can exchange with the ones you donât want to read anymore.
When I need to relax⊠the thermal baths are ideal. My favourite is the Veli Bej Baths, hidden inside a hospital close to the Danube. Itâs an old Ottoman bath that has since been renovated. It may not have the dilapidated charm of the other Turkish baths, but itâs a great spot to unwind from the stress of the week.
On a sunny day⊠Iâll try to get outdoors, maybe go for a hike around Buda Hills, have a barbecue near the Danube beach on RĂłmai Part, or chill out with a fröccs (spritzer) on Kopaszi GĂĄt peninsula in south Buda. But usually Iâll stay closer to home and hike up GellĂ©rt Hill to the Philosopherâs Garden with a book and just relax on the grass with views over the castle.
To splash out⊠you canât go wrong with KollĂĄzs Bistro, a fine-dining restaurant in the Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel. Their French brioche dessert is simply spectacular. Nano Bar & Restaurant, the new molecular gastronomy place, is also a lot of fun, especially since Iâve been fascinated with this style of cooking for a long time.
For cheap eats⊠I always go for street food. My vice is a local place called Paneer, the worldâs first cheese bar, which specialises in fried cheeseburgers and other cheesy bites. They have a shop on KirĂĄly utca, but also a few street food trucks. Another favourite is a sandwich-and-soup place called Crust that opened recently on Kolosy tĂ©r â in my opinion it makes the best baguette sandwiches in town.
What I love most about Budapest⊠is that you can find something new even after years of living here. Compared with other European capitals, itâs quite a small city, but Iâm still discovering hidden courtyards, new secrets and stories every day. You may spot a synagogue, like the Ăjlak Synagogue, or a church enclosed in an apartment block, or realise that the lake you walk past every day actually leads into a 7km-long cavern filled with thermal water.
You know youâve been in Budapest too long⊠when you recognise the ticket inspectors on the tram before they put the armband on, you start liking the fact you live in Buda rather than Pest, and you donât get flustered giving your fröccs order (usually this comes with a million questions on your wine-to-soda-water ratio etc) â not to mention youâll drink Unicum liqueur willingly.
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