Grocery store tourism: shop for food like a local in France

Going to a supermarket while traveling turns what is usually a fairly mundane activity at home into a new cultural experience and a deep insight into another country. From eyeing up fruits we’ve never seen before to sampling regional specialties, trying local foods is one of the best ways to get to know a place.

Food grabs your attention in France, one of gastronomic capitals of the world and home to the crispy baguette, many prestigious wines, and a ton of Michelin stars. But while fine dining can sometimes be out of reach, we can all browse the aisles of our local supermarket to get a taste of France. Here good food is revered every day, from picking up freshly baked croissants in the morning to browsing cheese and wines on a Saturday afternoon for a weekend apéro (apéritif) with friends.

Here we show you how to get the most out of grocery shopping in France, from what to when and where to buy it.

Types of French supermarkets and grocery shops

Supermarkets are, of course, where pretty much all French people do their daily shopping. Big chains include Carrefour and Franprix, but you’ll find the highest quality food selection (plus a popular selection of clothes and homeware) at Monoprix. For organic, seasonal produce go to Bio C Bon (mainly in Paris), Naturalia, or Biocoop (the supermarkets do sell organic produce but you’ll find a better quality in the list here).

It’s still the norm in France to go to a specialty shop for certain products, particularly if you’re hosting an event like a birthday or dinner party. Some places you’re sure to spot are the boucherie or butcher (they’ll probably sell charcuterie too, but if not, look for a boucherie charcuterie), poissonnerie (fishmongers), fromagerie (cheesemonger), cave (wine shop), boulangerie (bakery selling bread, pastries, and sometimes cakes and desserts), pâtisserie (bakery selling fancier desserts) and chocolaterie (shop selling chocolate and maybe other sweet treats such as caramels, hot chocolate or chocolate desserts).

For specialty products like teas, jams and preserves, canned fish and pasta, look for an épicerie or épicerie fine. The fine indicates that higher quality, artisan items are available, but you can sometimes get these at an épicerie too.

Markets are a huge part of French life all around the country. They’re great for picking up fruit and veg, buying local specialities and just generally immersing yourself in this part of French culture.

You can also buy fresh produce from a primeur (greengrocer), and while they usually have a great selection, they can be more expensive than the supermarket.

Shopping in season

Traditionally, the French have shopped according to what was available: if it wasn’t the season for strawberries, then you couldn’t find a strawberry. This has changed somewhat in the big supermarket chains where you can now get most things most of the time, but the organic supermarkets still respect seasonality.

The products you can’t leave France without buying (and what to ask for)

Cheese and dairy products

Have you even been to France if you haven’t eaten fromage? Charles de Gaulle famously wondered “how can anyone govern a country with 246 varieties of cheese?” but in fact the French president had seriously underestimated just how much cheese his country was producing: experts put the number around 1,000 to 1,200 different varieties. You’ll only find a small selection of global brands in the supermarket, and while they might satisfy your cheese cravings, it’s best to head to a fromagerie (cheesemonger) where they’ll guide you to your perfect cheese match. Some popular options beyond the obvious Roquefort and Brie are Comté, Cantal and Mimolette (all hard cheeses matured to different ages); Bleu d’Auvergne, a delicious alternative blue option; Mont d’Or (try melting this in winter instead of Camembert); Pont-l’Évêque and Livarot, if you like soft cheese; and the creamy Brillat-Savarin.

Bread and pastries

If there is one thing to definitely avoid in a French supermarket, it’s bread and pastries. They will be of a lower, industrial quality, so it really is worth looking for a good boulangerie or pâtisserie. Sourdough bread (pain au levain) is growing in popularity in Paris and bakers will often slice it for you if you want it for a picnic. If you want a classic baguette, ask for a baguette tradition, which is made with only four ingredients: flour, yeast, salt and water. If you ask for a baguette without the tradition, then the same rules don’t apply. When picking a croissant, make sure to choose the straight-shaped croissant au beurre made with butter, as it’s flakier and full of flavor; the croissant ordinaire/nature is made with margarine and can be spotted by its crescent shape. Other pastries to look out for include pains au chocolat, pains aux raisins, pains Suisses, and chaussons aux pommes. Financiers and madeleines are also French classics.

Wine and spirits

Wine can be intimidating, especially in a country famous for it. Supermarkets can have a pretty good selection, but for a more authentic experience, head to a cave to ask the experts. They can also introduce you to options you probably haven’t tried before: swap a bottle of big brand champagne for a smaller grower-producer (the term given to artisan producers who grow their own grapes) or skip the Bordeaux and Burgundy in favor of an up and coming wine region such as Jura, Cahors or Languedoc.

Tips for shopping in French supermarkets

Shopping etiquette

In some French supermarkets you’ll be expected to weigh fresh produce yourself and take it to the cashier with a barcode ready to scan; look around for scales with a touch screen and other shoppers weighing their fruit and veg.

Shops that don’t expect you to weigh your own produce sometimes still have a scale so you can check how much you’re buying. If they don’t and you need to know how many grams you’ve got, then you can always ask a staff member to weigh it for you by saying “pouvez-vous peser cela s’il vous plaît?”

French supermarkets often have paper bags and sturdier multi-use shopping bags for sale at the check out, but you’ll see many French people taking their own bags to be more eco-friendly.

In specialist stores, the staff really are the experts. The French respect their knowledge and it’s generally expected that you listen to their recommendations. If you really don’t like something they choose, that’s ok – just tell them so they lead you in the right direction. But if they tell you why these cheeses pair well together on a platter or why that wine would be great with your dessert, they expect that you’ll go with their advice. If you’re unsure about what you might like, ask to try some samples.

In Paris you’ll find most people in food shops and markets speak English, although it’s always polite – and appreciated – to make an effort in French. Department stores also have excellent food halls and a lot of English-speaking staff: try Galeries Lafayette Le Gourmet and La Cave, La Grande Épicerie, the fantastic (although expensive) food hall belonging to the ultra-luxe Le Bon Marché, or the two floors of Printemps du Goût at Printemps Haussmann.

Best times to shop

Although it’s becoming more common for big supermarket chains to open on a Sunday in Paris, you’re more likely to find that everywhere is closed outside of the capital. For independent shops, Sunday openings vary. If you’re heading to the supermarket from around 6pm and onwards, expect to stand in a queue as people will be popping in after work to pick up dinner. Of course Saturdays are another busy period.

Markets usually set up shop one or two days a week from early morning to early afternoon. Marché Bastille in Paris, for example, is open from 7am until 1:30pm on Thursdays and from 7am until 2:30pm on Saturdays. Go early to see the market in full swing and get the best choice of produce. If you get there just before closing time, some stalls might’ve already sold out or closed up completely, although some sellers may offer an end-of-day bargain price to get rid of leftover produce.

Payment methods

Most shops accept contactless card payments, although there might be a minimum spend of one or five euros. But when visiting a market it’s handy to take both card and cash (including small change or notes for small purchases) as some vendors have a preference, and some don’t take card payments at all.